Bloodless Coup

Look for the snippy corporate commentary

Always a sign of someone speaking truth that exposes bullshit claims:

The chain, Hannaford Brothers, developed a system called Guiding Stars that rated the nutritional value of nearly all the food and drinks at its stores from zero to three stars. Of the 27,000 products that were plugged into Hannaford's formula, 77 percent received no stars, including many, if not most, of the processed foods that advertise themselves as good for you.

These included V8 vegetable juice (too much sodium), Campbell's Healthy Request Tomato soup (ditto), most Lean Cuisine and Healthy Choice frozen dinners (ditto) and nearly all yogurt with fruit (too much sugar). Whole milk? Too much fat — no stars. Predictably, most fruits and vegetables did earn three stars, as did things like salmon and Post Grape-Nuts cereal.

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Hannaford's nutritionists acknowledge that their system is more stringent than the guidelines used by the F.D.A. The food agency sets standards that food manufacturers must use when they define a product as, say, low in fat or high in fiber, and companies may use those designations even if the product is loaded with less desirable ingredients. Hannaford's panelists said their formula was more balanced, taking into account all the positives and negative

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Not surprising, the food industry still is not entirely happy, and it disputes Hannaford's conclusions.

"We don't like the idea that there are good and bad foods out there, and these sort of arbitrary rating systems," said John Faulkner, director of brand communication at the Campbell Soup Company. The Healthy Request line of soup, he said, was "aligned with the government definition of what healthy is."

Similarly, a spokeswoman for ConAgra Foods, Stephanie Childs, said that her company would like to know how Hannaford concluded that many items in its Healthy Choice line did not merit any stars.

"This is surprising to us," Ms. Childs said. Healthy Choice, which offers a range of items from frozen meals to pasta sauces and deli meats, "has to use F.D.A.'s very stringent requirements for what is healthy."

Admirers of Guiding Stars say the ratings illustrate how nutrition claims on packages can mislead consumers even if they are technically true. Many packages trumpet the benefits of a few attributes - high fiber, for instance, or no trans fats - while ignoring negatives like too much sodium, they said.

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The F.D.A., for its part, points to its specific requirements for foods that make health claims as well as their labels. It also acknowledges that its policing abilities go only so far.

"The thing is, a lot of claims we see out there are puffery," said Joseph R. Baca, director of the office of compliance at the F.D.A.'s Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition. "But they don’t get to the point where we can call them fake or misleading."

I've said it before and I'll say it again, if you haven't read Food Politics, you should.